It’s all very easy to sit down with a glass of Leflaive, Lafon or Lafarge, and think: Why aren’t all wines this great? How could anyone use herbicides and synthetic chemicals after tasting such graceful purity that these organic domaines deliver?
It was time for me to experience something a little more profound than mowing grass and hoeing out weeds. It isn’t everyday when I have the opportunity to guide a solid 800 Kg’s of muscle from a native Bourgundian Auxonne horse through some of the greatest vineyards in the world. After jumping at the chance to learn the ropes of such a bizarre profession, I set off to the Equestrian School near Autun, some 60km northwest of Beaune. Mid-winter, position on a hill with a fierce wind and icy rain is enough to make anyone rethink a great opportunity, however after spending several days wrapped up in a ski coat, gloves and boots, my time in Autun was up and I was ready for the Côte d’Or.
The Côte d’Or has a magical feeling in spring as the slopes light up with bright green young shoots after months of a dormant grey colour. The warm weather in May had produced so much growth that the vines towered over you as you walked down the vineyard rows. We headed for Pommard, arriving at a small walled vineyard under the appellation Pommard – Le Village. This small plot of vines had been well kept, without the use of herbicides, mechanically ploughed with the vines in a healthy state.
Hands on the plough, reigns through my thumbs, looking up to the great Auxonne in front on me, it was like a dream. Once in the row, the horse didn’t need much guidance, it’s just a matter of putting your weight on one side of the plough to avoid getting too close to the vines. The plough was made up of 5 “griffs”, breaking up and aerating the first 5cm of soil. This helps to decrease the soil compaction, increase the activity of aerobic microorganisms and turn over any adventitious plants – creating “green compost”.
Horses are incredibly perceptive animals, underneath all that rippling muscle lies this sensitive aware being that takes in every movement and expression you make. Working with horses is therefore all about being able to communicate without using the reins and without guiding by force. The two way relationship is brought about by directive movements and verbal communication. It’s amazing to be able to guide a horse simply by talking and walking alongside it.
So continue on with your glasses of Burgundian pleasure, and when you’re next in a vineyard – whether it be Burgundy or Barossa have a good stamp and kick at the soil and decide if it’s hoofs, tractor wheels or chemical herbicides that have put the vineyard’s soil into it’s current state.
Looks like you have that trusty steed under control. Perhaps you could even get some sly pruning done on the side if you attached some spurs vis-à-vis Ben Hur style.
Awesome post and beautiful photos! Absolutely agree that this is a great way to produce great wines!